Flavors of Almería: where to eat the best fresh fish near El Toyo

Almería is, for many gourmets, one of the best kept secrets of Spanish Mediterranean cuisine. Its proximity to the sea and its fishing tradition make the province a perfect destination for those who travel thinking both about the palate and the landscape, and November, with the good weather still present but without the hustle and bustle of summer, is an excellent month to spend time discovering it calmly.

A few minutes from El Toyo, the Port of Almería and its surroundings are home to some of the most active fish markets on the coast. Here it is a tradition to order red prawns from Garrucha, one of the province's star products, along with fried anchovies, coquinas or the classic "ajo colorao", a humble dish based on potato, pepper and cod that sums up Almeria's stew cuisine.

In the fishing towns of Cabo de Gata, such as Las Negras or La Isleta del Moro, we find small family restaurants where the fish is served so fresh that it has sometimes been caught that same morning. Fish in salt, monkfish in sauce or grilled mackerel are common options on their menus, always accompanied by a good local wine, such as those from the Laujar Denomination of Origin from Andalusia.

In El Toyo and Retamar there are also beach bars and local restaurants where you can enjoy seafood rice dishes and seafood grills with views of the sea, perfect for a relaxed weekend meal without having to travel to the capital.

For tapas lovers, the center of Almería offers one of the most generous traditions in Spain: free tapas with every drink, a custom that turns a simple round of beers into an authentic gastronomic tour of centuries-old bars in the historic center.

November, with its mild afternoons and cool nights, is also the season for slaughter products and the first spoon dishes, so it is not unusual to find bean stews or migas from Almería on local menus, a traditional bread-based dish that is served accompanied by grapes, sardines or fried peppers. Discovering this most intimate and least known side of Almería gastronomy is one of the best excuses to return to the area outside of high season.

For those who prefer to cook in their own accommodation, the municipal markets of Almería capital, such as the Central Market, offer fish, seafood and seasonal products at very competitive prices, being a great option for those who want to prepare their own recipes taking advantage of the fully equipped kitchen of their accommodation in El Toyo.

November is also the month in which many restaurants in the province begin to incorporate traditional slaughter products into their menus, as well as the first citrus fruits of the season, grown in the interior areas of the province. The combination of quality fish, greenhouse vegetables - Almería is the European leader in fruit and vegetable production - and meat from the mountains makes the local gastronomy one of the most complete and varied in all of Andalusia.

For a different gastronomic experience, many visitors recommend booking a wine tasting at one of the small wineries in the Alpujarra of Almeria, just over an hour from El Toyo, where high-altitude wines are produced in unique climatic conditions in Europe, a perfect plan for a full-day getaway combining gastronomy and mountain landscape.