A day inland in August: the Tabernas desert, Níjar and the Alcazaba from El Toyo

August in El Toyo has its own rhythm: mornings at the beach, afternoons by the pool, and for those looking for something different during the hottest hours, a handful of inland plans that combine shade, culture and a landscape completely different from the coast. Less than three quarters of an hour by car opens up some of the most singular corners of Almería.

The most surprising is, without doubt, the Tabernas desert, the only desert in mainland Europe and the setting for dozens of classic westerns filmed in the sixties and seventies. In its former film sets, now theme parks such as Oasys MiniHollywood, you can watch cowboy shoot-out shows, walk through the original sets and cool off in its pool — a combination that tends to delight children and adults alike, solving the midday heat problem in one go.

Very close to El Toyo, just over twenty minutes away, Níjar is a must for anyone who enjoys traditional craftsmanship. Its narrow whitewashed streets, well shaded from mid-morning onwards, are full of pottery workshops and the traditional jarapas — handwoven rugs and bedspreads that have made the town famous for generations. Strolling around, browsing the workshops and having something cool in one of its squares is a calm plan, very different from the rhythm of the beach.

The Alcazaba of Almería, in the heart of the capital, is another excellent option for the hottest hours: one of the largest Islamic fortresses in Spain, with walls, cisterns and gardens offering plenty of shade and privileged views over the city and the port. Visiting it first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon, when the sun is less intense, is the best way to enjoy it without the heat.

Since Níjar and Almería city are practically in the same direction, many guests staying in El Toyo combine both visits in a single day: a quiet morning in Níjar, lunch in the capital, and the Alcazaba as the afternoon cools down. Tabernas, given the distance and how much a full visit to its film sets takes, tends to be kept as a separate half-day trip.

To make the most of any of these plans, the usual local advice is to leave El Toyo before ten in the morning, or, if visiting Tabernas, to plan the trip for late afternoon, when the desert starts to cool down and the light is far more flattering for photos.

Almería city is also a good option for solving lunch on a day of extreme heat: its tapas bars, many of which follow the tradition of serving a free tapa with every drink, offer covered terraces and air-conditioned rooms for a long break during the hottest hours before continuing the visit.

August is also the month of the Feria de Almería, the city's annual fair, with concerts, marquees and activities during the last days of the month; it's worth checking the official up-to-date programme before planning an evening visit, since dates and times can vary from year to year.

Back in El Toyo, after a day of contrasts between the desert, the whitewashed village and the historic city, the community pool and the breeze on the terrace are once again, as every August, the perfect way to close the day.